New York Fashion Week: Goodbye Lincoln Center, Hello Fall 2015

It’s a time of big changes for the New York fashion industry. The runway shows will no longer be held at Lincoln Center. Complaints from locals about the lack of access to a park attached to Lincoln Center doomed the tents at Lincoln Center, but many designers had already abandoned the performing arts center for edgier spots downtown.

Now we’ve learned, shows will be held at two locations come September. IMG, which produces many of the shows, will hold them at Skylight at Moynihan Station near Penn Station and at Skylight Clarkson Square in SOHO. Moynihan station is a giant post office that’s currently in the middle of a major restoration.

The Fall 2015 collections were held earlier this year at New York Fashion Week.. many for the last time at Lincoln Center.

Fox was at Pamella Roland’s fall show.

In an interview with Fox, Pamella Roland said, “we are known for our beautiful cocktail dresses and evening gowns, so this season we added intricately embellished coats and sweaters to build on what we already do well and give our customers something new.”

Roland said “for Fall 2015 I was inspired by one of my favorite books called “the Beautiful Fall” which focused on the world of high fashion during the 70’s in Paris.”

Indeed the 1970’s were inspiration for many collections this season.

We saw a 70’s vibe at Rachel Zoe’s presentation which included jumpsuits and a laid back California sensibility.

The 70’s is always a big influence with Zoe, and with Mara Hoffman who’s Fall 2015 show was filled with her trademark bright colors and funky prints.

Dennis Basso – a specialist in fur - sent a parade of 70’s party girls draped in furs down the runway for Fall. Gold and white looks were especially strong. There were also some good looks in burgundy.

Alice + Olivia designer Stacey Bendet told Fox “Fall was inspired by the swinging London era – the late 60’s and early 70’s, the period where fashion had a truly rock and roll Bohemian moment.”

She said it was a sexy period in history. It was seen in Alice + Olivia’s bell bottoms and tapestry vests and coats.

That patchwork style was another prominent trend for Fall.

Nicole Miller was a darker and a little more gothic than usual with lots of dark greens and black. Miller also showed some patchwork looks. There was an interesting mix of patterns and fabrications. One of the most popular looks was a top with two shiny seahorses on the front.

The 1980’s also referenced in several collections Fox saw.

Milly by Michelle Smith is always a fun show. Fall 2015 was filled with neon colors, and mesh and what appeared to be neoprene. She used black as a base color for bright pops of color.

Up-and-coming designer Chris Gelinas showed his CG by Chris Gelinas collection during Fashion Week at the Standard Hotel.  Gelinas was a finalist for the LVMH prize for new talent. He told me he was all about embracing the woman, “I think for me this collection is about thinking about the idea of power of power dressing, and what makes women feel powerful when they get dressed. I always thought it was really silly – this idea of a power suit – taking so much from men’s tailoring, and trying to bring masculinity to a feminine form when I there’s so much about women that I find very powerful. So this is about embracing the feminine form.”

Another new talent, Charles Harbison, is on fire right now. His line, Harbison, has been embraced by celebrities like Beyonce, and his presentation was a mob scene.  It’s going to be a busy Fall for the rising fashion star.

Badgley Mischka showed a Fall collection full of 1940’s glamour sure to be spotted on a red carpet near you.

Vivienne Tam said she was inspired by romantic Western versions of China, “The collection is an Urban romantic take on Chinoissierie. How Europeans imagine China and the East.”

Tam showed lots of high necks and patterns based on Chippendale furniture. There was a Victorian element to the collection. As usual, she was innovative in her use of new manmade fabrics combining them with silk or wool for balance.

Tam has been in business for more than 20 years, and has a piece in the new exhibit at the Metropolitan Art Museum. She also had a few pieces in an exhibit earlier this year at the Fashion Institute Museum here in New York City including one of her famous “Mao” pieces from the 1990’s.

And Pamella Roland told Fox the business is evolving rapidly, “The Fashion industry isn’t for those that want to sit on their laurels, but if you’re passionate and want to work with exciting creative people then I can’t imagine anything better.”

The next fashion week will be September 10-17th. Stay tuned.