<b>Brandade Croquettes and Serrano Ham Croquettes with Fresh Tomato Puree and Cabrales Espuma</b>
Croquettes are everywhere in Spain—but, too often, they are doughy and heavy. So I went in search of a better croquette. The secret? While most Spanish croquette recipes call for a flour-and-water roux, this one calls for gelatin. The difference is amazing.
These croquettes have a crisp exterior and a saucy, creamy interior. (Note: To make the espuma you’ll need a whipped cream charger.)
Serves 6
2 cups all-purpose flour<br>
10 large eggs<br>
2 cups finely ground bread crumbs<br>
12 brandade croquettes (recipe follows)<br>
12 serrano ham croquettes (recipe follows)<br>
8 cups vegetable oil, for frying<br>
1 cup fresh tomato puree (recipe follows)<br>
1/2 ounce osetra caviar<br>
3 tablespoons Cabrales espuma (recipe follows)
Putting it all together: To bread croquettes, arrange 3 large bowls. Place flour in first bowl. Whisk eggs in second bowl. Place bread crumbs in third bowl. Working with no more than 10 brandade or ham croquettes at a time, drop croquettes into flour, shaking bowl until croquettes are completely coated. Remove croquettes from flour, shaking off excess, and put into bowl with eggs.
Shake bowl until croquettes are completely covered in egg. Remove croquettes from egg, shake off excess, and put into bowl with bread crumbs. Shake bowl until croquettes are evenly coated. Remove croquettes from bread crumbs, shake off excess and place on a tray lined with parchment paper. Refrigerate, uncovered. Breaded croquettes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
In a fryer or deep, heavy-bottomed 4-quart pan, heat vegetable oil to 350°F. Drop croquettes into the fryer until golden brown, about 30 seconds. Place on paper towels to drain.
Divide fresh tomato puree between 6 rocks glasses. Divide caviar between 3 of the glasses, and the Cabrales espuma between the other 3 glasses. Skewer brandade croquettes, 4 to a skewer, and balance on each of the three glasses with caviar. Skewer Serrano ham croquettes, 4 to a skewer, and balance on each of the 3 glasses with the Cabrales espuma.
<b>Brandade Croquettes</b>
6 ounces bacalao, cut into large chunks<br>
1 cup chopped Spanish onion<br>
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil<br>
1/2 cup peeled and chopped Idaho potatoes<br>
1 cup heavy cream<br>
4 cups water<br>
1 sprig rosemary<br>
3 cloves roasted garlic<br>
3 sheets gelatin<br>
Kosher salt, to taste
To make brandade croquettes: Place bacalao in saucepan; fill pan with water. Over high heat, bring water to a boil. Strain off water and repeat process 3 times to desalinize fish.
In a small saucepan, combine onion and olive oil. Cook over low heat for 30 minutes, until onion is very tender. Strain onion mixture, reserving onions and oil separately.<br>
At the same time, in a medium saucepan, combine potato, heavy cream, 4 cups water, and rosemary. Over high heat, bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. (These steps must be done simultaneously so all mixtures will be hot when pureed.) Strain potato mixture, reserving potatoes and cream separately
In a food processor, combine fish, onions, half of potatoes, and roasted garlic. Puree for about 30 seconds. Bloom gelatin in ice water. Squeeze excess water from bloomed gelatin sheets. To pureed mixture, add bloomed gelatin, reserved onion oil and cream from the potato mixture. Puree until creamy, but not completely smooth. Season with salt. Pour mixture onto sheet tray and cool.
Roll dough into 2-tablespoon balls, placing on a tray lined with parchment. Put in the freezer to set, 1 hour. Brandade croquettes can be frozen for up to 1 week.
<b>Serrano Ham Croquettes<br></b>3 ounces pork butt, diced small<br>
1/4 tablespoon vegetable oil<br>
1/2 cup small diced Spanish onion<br>
2 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper<br>
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br>
1 ounce ham fat<br>
1/4 cup all-purpose flour<br>
1 cup whole milk<br>
1 sheet gelatin<br>
1 ounce serrano ham butt, diced small
To make serrano ham croquettes: In a braising pan, combine diced pork butt and vegetable oil. Over medium-low heat, render the pork until crisp. Add onion, peppers, butter, and ham fat. Cook over medium heat until peppers and onions are soft. Reduce heat to low and add flour. Mix thoroughly and cook 10 minutes, stirring several times. Add milk gradually, incorporating with a rubber spatula, as the mixture thickens and becomes smooth. Bloom gelatin in ice water. Squeeze excess water from bloomed gelatin sheets, and stir gelatin into mixture until dissolved. Turn off heat and add serrano ham. Mix thoroughly. Pour onto a sheet tray and cool.
Roll into 2-tablespoon cylinders, place on a tray lined with parchment. Put in the freezer to set, 1 hour. Serrano ham croquettes can be frozen for up to 1 week.<br><br><b>Fresh Tomato Puree<br></b>4 plum tomatoes, quartered<br>
1 clove garlic<br>
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar<br>
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil<br>
1 teaspoon kosher salt
To make fresh tomato puree: In a food processor, puree tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, and oil. Season with salt. Strain through a chinois. Use immediately.
<b>Cabrales Espuma<br></b>1/2 cup heavy cream<br>
1 ounce Cabrales or other blue cheese<br>
1/2 sheet gelatin
To make Cabrales espuma: In a small saucepan over low heat, warm heavy cream. Whisk in cheese until melted. Bloom gelatin in ice water. Remove cream mixture from heat and whisk in bloomed gelatin. Cream mixture can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. When ready to use, fill a whipped cream charger halfway with the mixture and charge with 2 nitrous canisters. Place the charger in a warm place until use. (Do not charge more than 3 hours in advance.) (Recipe & Photo from Latin Evolution, by Jose’ Garces)