From ashes to glory, the city of Gdańsk, Poland, soldiers on through history

An up-close and scenic look at Gdańsk's history and recovery after World War II

On Sept. 1, 1939 — 84 years ago — the German warship Schleswig-Holstein fired at Polish units in the city of Gdańsk, then known as Danzig. 

The Nazi blitzkrieg of Poland followed and World War II erupted.

By the time the war was over, large parts of the city were destroyed — and an invisible Iron Curtain prevented it from enjoying the prosperity of the Western world. 

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Like many other cities before and after, whether damaged by war, fire or an earthquake, Gdańsk had to shake off the trauma.

It had to gather its resources and start rebuilding.

After World War II, Gdańsk, Poland, had to shake off the trauma and start rebuilding.  (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Former President Ronald Reagan and Polish-born Pope John Paul II — strolling together, engrossed in conversation — are immortalized in bronze statues standing tall in a large park named after the U.S. commander-in-chief. 

The park is perched at the edge of the Amber Coast in the city of Gdańsk, the birthplace of Lech Walesa’s Solidarity movement.  

Flowers and wreaths are placed in front of statues to display gratitude for the leaders who had a role in defeating communism. This is in President Ronald Reagan Park. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Fresh flowers and wreaths can always be found in front of the statues, a display of genuine gratitude by the locals aware of the leading role the two statesmen had in the defeat of communism. 

The trauma of the harsh martial law enforced in 1981 and government-imposed austerities are long gone.  

Tourists travel to see the historic port city. Here, Ulica Dluga-Long Lane Street is shown.  (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Life seems tranquil in Gdańsk these days. 

Still patches awaiting reconstruction

Tourists flock to this historic port city, attracted by the picturesque old town and white sandy beaches. 

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But as they climb to the top of St. Mary’s Basilica and gaze down, they realize that there are still small patches around town waiting for reconstruction.  

World War II began on Sept. 1, 1939, in Gdańsk. Shown here, Gdańsk Old Town. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

The history is impossible to ignore: Gdańsk is where World War II began. 

On Sept. 1st, 1939, the German warship Schleswig-Holstein fired at Polish garrison guarding the outpost of Westerplatte. 

The city was governed by Poland but had a vast German population. Adolf Hitler demanded it be handed over to the Third Reich and refused to take "no" for an answer. 

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Global war ensued and raged for six years — leaving over 60 million people dead worldwide and countless cities reduced to ashes. 

Preservation of history won the day over modernity — and the city began its comeback. 

Gdańsk was devastated. When the war finally ended, the remaining German population was ordered to leave, and the Poles began a debate over how to rebuild the badly damaged city.  

Some wanted to remove the rubble and start anew, creating a modern town with just a few token historic structures left standing. 

Others wanted the entire old town rebuilt — after all, Gdańsk had been an important city for 1,000 years. It hurt people deeply to see it reduced to ashes. 

Fortunately, preservation of history won the day over modernity. Slowly but surely the city began its comeback.  

World War II left over 60 million people dead worldwide and countless cities reduced to ashes. Shown here, the Motlawa River waterfront. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Gdańsk was founded by Polish ruler Mieszko I in 980.  

It was a strategic port settlement where the river Vistula emptied into the Baltic Sea and ships sailed toward the Scandinavian Kingdom of Denmark. 

Gdańsk — "Ku-Dansk" — meant "toward Denmark."

Gdańsk was founded by Polish ruler Mieszko 1 in 980. Shown here is the Motlawa River waterfront. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

At the beginning of the 14th century, the city was taken over by the Order of Teutonic Knights and its name was Germanized to Danzig. 

After several revolts against the Teutonic Order, in 1410, during the Polish Teutonic wars, the city's council recognized the Polish king, Władysław Jagiełło, as its sovereign. 

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Throughout the centuries the city prospered, joining the Hanseatic League and employing Flemish and Dutch architects to erect its finest structures. 

Gdańsk prospered, joining Hanseatic League and employing Flemish and Dutch architects to erect its finest structures. Here, Gdańsk Old Town. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Gdańsk created a vast central avenue lined with colorful, intricate and beautifully designed townhouses for the nobility and merchants, really just to impress the Polish kings in case they decided to pay a visit.  

Artus Court was a merchant meeting place open to locals and visitors. Pictured is Artus Court in the Old Town. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

A merchant meeting place called Artus Court (Dwór Artusa) named for the legendary King Arthur opened its doors to locals as well as visitors.  

Gdańsk’s most famous landmark, Neptune’s Fountain, a mannerist-rococo masterpiece, still stands prominently in front of the court, attracting throngs of tourists.

Gdańsk's most famous landmark is Neptune's Fountain, at the Long Market. The sculpture was cast from bronze in 1615. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

The astronomer Hevelius made his important discoveries here and is buried in St Catherine's Church, the oldest church in Gdańsk.   

The physicist Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit was born and grew up here right on Ogarna Street.

Astronomer Hevelius was buried in Gdańsk's oldest church, St. Catherine's Church. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

He is known for inventing the mercury thermometer and developing his namesake Fahrenheit temperature scale, which is still used in the United States. 

His family townhouse is now a museum. 

The Fahrenheit House is now a museum. It's shown here in Gdańsk, Old Town. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Perhaps the most imposing structure in the old town is the largest brick church in the world, the Basilica of St. Mary. 

Its massive tower dominates the Gdańsk skyline. 

The construction of the church began in 1343.  

The construction of the Basilica of St. Mary Church began in 1343. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Among other artifacts, the church houses a renaissance clock constructed by Hans Düringer. 

Upon its completion in 1470, the clock was the largest in the world. 

A renaissance clock completed in 1470 is the largest in the world and sits in the church. This is the Gdańsk astronomical clock. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Gdańsk Main Town Hall is hard to miss, and it offers lovely views of the old town from its tower. 

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It is one of the finest examples of Gothic-Renaissance architecture in town — and the oldest parts of the building date back to 1327. 

The oldest parts of Gdańsk Main Town Hall date back to 1327.  (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

One of the most popular attractions for snapping photos along the Motlawa River waterfront is the "Żuraw," the largest medieval port crane in Europe

Built in the 15th century, the crane is also a fortified gate and a unique treasure of medieval technology.  

The largest medieval port crane in Europe is the Żuraw.  (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

The Motlawa River waterfront dazzles with amber shops, restaurants and a variety of gates opening onto picturesque, historic streets.

Perhaps the favorite for both locals as well as tourists is Mariacka Street. 

Gdańsk St. Mary's Gate is pictured here. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

Gdańsk changed hands between Poland and Germany several times. 

In addition, it was besieged by Sweden during the Second Northern War. Napoleon tried to liberate it from the Prussians, referring to it as "finally a decent place." 

But one community of foreign people settled in Gdańsk peacefully and created their own neighborhoods, still known as Nowe Szkoty and Stare Szkoty — New Scotland and Old Scotland. 

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From the late 14th century, the Baltic region enjoyed strong trade links with Scotland. Religious tolerance and prosperity enticed many Scotts to settle in Gdańsk. By the 17th century, Poland was home to an estimated 30,000 Scots. A large number lived in Gdańsk. 

Over the course of several centuries, the Scottish population assimilated. But one can still enjoy a nice meal at a Scottish pub named U Szkota. 

People go to grab food and drinks at the Scottish pub U Szkota. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

After the First Partition of Poland in 1772 (giving large chunks to Austria, Russia and Prussia), the inhabitants of the city fought fiercely for Gdańsk to remain a part of Poland. But after the Second Partition, the city was incorporated into the Kingdom of Prussia.  

In September 1807, Napoleon Bonaparte arrived and established the Free City of Danzig. It only lasted only seven years. 

After the French retreated, a French physician named Jean Georges Haffner, who arrived there as an army doctor serving Napoleon's troops, decided to stay and build a spa and a wooden pier in the nearby village of Sopot. Haffner’s pier was only 30 meters long. 

But what the "happy French doctor" started would turn Sopot into a world-renowned resort, often referred to as the Polish Riviera. And his modest wooden pier? It has now expanded into the longest one in Europe.  

A French physician built a spa and a wooden pier in the village of Sopot. Shown here is the Sopot Waterfront. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

When Poland was partitioned and Danzig fell into German hands, its significance as a port city dwindled.

The city was finally returned to Poland by the treaty of Versailles, at the end of World War I. But another war was looming on the horizon.  

During the Russian offensive in World War II, large parts of the historic city perished.   

The rebuilding of the city was to put on display its Flemish architecture and bring comfort to a nation decimated by war. Here, a poster of an artist working on Gdańsk reconstruction.  (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

The list of reasons why Gdańsk should be and would be rebuilt was quite lengthy. The decision was made to bring it back to its former glory, to put on display its Flemish architecture, and to bring comfort to a nation decimated by war. 

The city was rebuilt not for the tourists, but for its inhabitants. And ironically, it remained that way for generations. 

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After the war, Poland was trapped behind the Iron Curtain, and few foreigners could enjoy the delights of the somewhat mediocre socialist accommodations. But the citizens of Gdańsk never gave up, and eventually, with the help and inspiration of Pope John Paul II and Ronald Reagan, they saw a peaceful change of regime. They became part of the European Union. 

Forum Gdańsk Shopping Mall. (Danuta Hamlin/Fox News)

They began to spruce up the town and build new hotels, shopping malls and aquaparks. And eventually they saw the tourists return … in throngs ... and enter the old city though the golden gate … and be awestuck. 

What would Gdańsk be like without its old town? One dare not imagine.  

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A war, a fire, an earthquake, can seemingly take everything from people, impoverish them, demoralize them. 

For any place suffering distress, Gdańsk is a shining example of how to soldier on against all odds, how to rebuild and hold one's head high in the face of adversity.  

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